A Luangwa Adventure

I set off from the USA in November 2010 on a safari trip at Kapani Lodge with my head full of questions. Ever since my last safari which was to Botswana, I had been wondering what would become of these wild places and the people who live near them. I knew animals were being killed to extinction by loss of habitat and human conflict and factoring in the challenges of global warming and precipitous climate change I was concerned and wanted to learn more. I couldn’t wait for the trips into the park, the animal sightings (which were amazing) and the dramatically beautiful landscape. I also was excited because Kapani has many connections to the community in the area (there are many links on their web site www.normancarrsafaris.com) and I knew I could visit these places too and maybe ask some of my questions. I allowed enough days (nine in all) so that I could experience as much as possible.

The Kapani staff made it possible for me to make many visits out into the community for which I am most grateful, and my guide for these forays, Charles, did a wonderful job of translating and putting everyone at ease.

Here are some that I visited and why:

• If you have questions about local species and how they are doing visit the Zambian Carnivore Programme www.zambiacarnivores.org based at a nearby Lodge. Their research might very well transform legal hunting programs in Zambia to something sustainable based on real numbers and conditions. They are collecting the hard scientific facts as well as rescuing animals in distress.
• Go to South Luangwa Conservation Society www.slcs-zambia.org if you want to know more about the brave anti-poaching officers or the efforts to keep ellies from the fruit trees and gardens of the villagers in the area. All local lodges support SLCS on a regular basis.
• Stop into the medical center to get a sense of health issues in the valley and what people are coping with.
• Talk to Abraham Banda, (Abes) or Christina (Gid) at Kapani Lodge to find out about education funds for promising students who need help financing their education.
• If you want to see a great example of a local school visit Yosefe. You can learn a lot about how the schools work and how they are funded and organized. Their excellent head master, Mr. Solomone Mwanza, will tell you all about his school and the challenges he faces. He emphasized to me the ways he works to keep kids in school, ways to motivate them, and ways to make Yosefe especially hospitable for girls. There are many afterschool clubs including conservation clubs.
• Go to Tribal Textiles www.tribaltextiles.co.zm to see and buy gorgeous hand painted fabrics. This is a thriving business which employs many.
• Stop in at Chipembele Wildlife Education Center www.chipembele.org as we did once on a game drive with our gifted guide Brian, to see what they do. Brian himself has been an avid conservationist since childhood. This education center and program run by Anna and Steven Tolan is both a beautiful thing to see and impressive in its scope. The classrooms, discovery rooms, library and program are rich resource areas, organized and totally kid friendly. Anna and Steve also had an orphaned vervet monkey and an orphaned baby bush baby when we visited, very cute, as well as other resident animals that had at one point or another come under their protection. It was fun to walk up to a semi tame wart hog, but not too close.
• And last but not least, if you want to spend time in a real village, participate in an important and crowded village gathering, laugh until the tears run and maybe save a few lives, then sponsor the SEKA AIDS awareness play as I did. (They also do a wildlife conflict play which I’d love to see some day) You can read about SEKA from a link on Kapani’s web site and visit their site at www.seka-educational-theatre.com

I set out with Charles at 2:30 in the afternoon in order to make it to Chivimba village by 3pm when the play was to begin. We bounced down the road just when a little cloud dumped some rain on us and on crowds of students getting out of school who were reveling in the rain. I caught a glimpse of many villages along the way and finally we entered into Chivimba village on a tiny dirt road. We drove further in, not sure at first where to go, and then squeezed our Toyota through a small path between palms which opened out into a grand gathering place under shade trees. There must have been several hundred people there. The actors were already drumming and getting ready to start. I sat with Charles on one side and Musa (Msatero Tembo), the director, on the other.

Rachel McRobb of SLCS removing a snare
Old Mama - one of the Luwi lions

I can’t begin to describe how brilliant, funny and important this play is. The message conveyed is to know your HIV status, to take care of yourself, to stay faithful to one person and not sleep around, not to be ashamed or to shame others but to be open and speak up about AIDS. The way the message is delivered is by way of a wild tale which is also a familiar one to all both there, as Charles told me, but also everywhere. It is the story of a virtuous wife, a philandering husband, the town prostitute, and what happens to them. The play also takes every opportunity to poke fun at many local types such as some very self important anti poaching officers. There is a baby (played by a large man), a pig (toilet plunger for nose), a dog, a priest, doctor, nurse, all played by the same small group of actors who also sometimes become furniture when needed. Without giving away the whole plot, I will say that the play manages through this group of characters to show the wrong way to deal with AIDS/HIV and the right way, and in the end despite all the clowning and laughing, it is a profoundly moving experience. The show ends with some more singing and drumming and a message of hope.

Yosefe Rangers Club
Headamaster Solomone Mwanza

When we left Chivimba to return to the lodge it hit me that my $250 may have saved some lives, may have helped some parents live to raise their kids, may have eased someone’s shame and guilt. I know I have never spent $250 more wisely and had so much fun at the same time! As we drove back through more tiny rain showers my heart sang. When I flew away from South Luangwa a few days later I had a new question in my head: are these leaders I found at SEKA, South Luangwa Conservation, Kapani, Yosefe School, Chipembele and others; are these people the new Noahs? Builders, stick by stick, of a new Ark?

A mural on the claassrom wall - anti-poaching
scene!
The tree project

I think it’s possible. I had a wonderful time and left with high spirits and hopes of returning soon! Thank you Kapani and all who were so hospitable to me. Zikomo kwambiri!

Pots of paint at Tribal Textiles
the textiles drying in the sun

Tribal Textiles artists at work
Changa the orphaned hand reared bushbaby

Anna and an orphaned vervet monkey
Steve in the amazing Education Centre at
Chipembele

Delighted audience at the SEKA play
SEKA caricaturing Zambia Wildlife Authorty scouts

• 10 Nights South Luangwa Safari
• The Luwi River Trail - Exclusive Adventure
• Luangwa Lion cubs - Family Safaris
• A Week on the Wildside
• Luangwa Forever - With Norman Carr Safaris
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• Sleep-out Zambian Safari
• 12 nights Falls Bush and Beach
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• Best of Zambia
• Zambia in a Week
• A Zambian Honeymoon

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